Benrinnes 1988 - 23 Year Old - SMWS 36.54 - A Cheeky Treat For Afternoon Tea

Founded in 1826, Benrinnes is a traditional Speyside distillery that joined the portfolio of Diageo forerunner DCL in 1925. Benrinnes was completely rebuilt in the 1950s and expanded in 1966 with two wash stills and four spirit stills for partial triple distillation. Since 2007 this has reverted to double distillation with each wash still now supplying two spirit stills. Benrinnes still uses worm tub condensers, which help give the distillery’s spirit a heavy, meaty character ideal for blending or for extended maturation in sherry casks.

Benrinnes’ importance as a blending malt means official bottlings are rare. The popular sherried Flora & Fauna 15-year-old first appeared in 1991 and was followed by an excellent Rare Malts edition in 1996 and a handful of subsequent Special Releases and other one-off bottlings. Independent Benrinnes is thankfully abundant, with some classic old vintages by Cadenhead’s, Gordon & MacPhail and the SMWS among others.

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) began in late 1970s Edinburgh when founder Pip Hills persuaded a group of friends to chip in for a cask of Glenfarclas, and was officially formalised in 1983. Today the SMWS has two venues in Edinburgh, a London bar and a string of international partnerships serving its 35,000 members. 

The Society’s whiskies are known for their unique SMWS coding system. Each cask bottled is assigned two numbers, representing the distillery and the bottling number, so 1.45 is the forty-fifth cask bottled from the first distillery and 33.27 is the 27th cask from the 33rd distillery.

Glenmorangie bought the Society in 2004, but sold it in 2015 to a private consortium who floated the SMWS on the stock market in 2021 via their holding company Artisanal Spirits Co.