Millburn 1978-2008 - Gordon & MacPhail

Millburn is a lost Highland distillery, another victim of Diageo forerunner DCL’s catastrophic wave of distillery closures in the 1980s. The distillery’s character was very traditional old school unsexy Highland style, with a tweedy, waxy, oily funk and sometimes a thread of smoke. Aged for long periods in refill wood, Millburns often show a delightful fruitiness.

The only official bottlings of Millburn were a trio of Rare Malts editions released between 1995-2005; all are excellent, but the standout was the classic 35-year-old Millburn 1969, which has become highly sought after. Independent bottlings of Millburn are relatively scarce, with only a tiny number released in the last decade. Unless Diageo or Gordon & MacPhail are hoarding stock for a 40-year-old Millburn release it seems likely that the last cask from this splendid lost Inverness distillery may already have been bottled.

Founded in Elgin as a merchant grocer and wine and spirits wholesaler in 1895, Gordon & MacPhail are one of the oldest independent whisky bottlers in Scotland. Co-founder James Gordon owned shares in Longmorn, Strathisla and Glen Grant, and Gordon & MacPhail were soon bottling officially licensed single malts from several distilleries and sending empty casks from their wine business to be filled with new make spirit and returned for maturation in their Elgin warehouses.

Gordon & MacPhail pioneered high strength single malts at 100 proof (57%) in the 1950s, and in 1968 the company launched Connoisseurs Choice, one of the first integrated ranges of small batch independent whisky bottlings. After finally becoming distillers themselves with the purchase of Benromach in 1993, in 2010 Gordon & MacPhail bottled the first 70-year-old single malt whisky (a Mortlach 1938) and in 2020 the company released the first ever 80-year-old whisky: Glenlivet 1940.